From Debuche, we had walked to Namche Bazaar to recuperate for a couple of days. There we took showers (finally!), had laundry done, ate well, consumed too much chang two nights in a row, and listened to children singing Mani Rimdu songs (it was the beginning of an annual multiday festival for the Sherpas). On Day 23, we trekked back down to Lukla, spent our last night there -- where Nima and I sneaked out after bedtime to join some other Sherpas in more Mani Rimdu singing and dancing -- and flew back to Kathmandu on Day 24.

We needed time in Kathmandu to do some shopping. And eating. Lots of eating.