Elastic Model of SLCD (abstract)
An Elastic Model of the Holding Power of
Spring Loaded Camming Devices
Used as Rock Climbing Anchors
Dave Custer
html markup by
Susan Ruff
Abstract
As a basis for specifications for the testing of spring loaded camming
devices used as rock climbing anchors, two successive models of these
devices are developed. The rigid body model assumes an infinitely
strong, undeformable cam; it determines the cam's basic shape and the
relationship between this shape and the cam's frictional holding
ability. Based on the rigid body model, the second, elastic model
takes deformation and material strength into account; this elastic
model determines the relationship between cam shape and the shear
strength of the cam. The models predict two failure modes for camming
devices placed in vertical, parallel cracks: inadequate friction and
shear yield failure. A measure of the limitations imposed by these
failure modes would provide climbers with information necessary for
intelligent anchor placement.